Publication select ▼TROY — The Troy Public Library hosted a presentation on skin care ingredients and needs at its “New Year, Fresh Face” event Jan. 8.
“We’ve had requests from patrons (and even staff) for a program that discusses skin care products and tips,” said librarian Eric Morgel, in an email. “We also thought that the new year would be the perfect time to offer a program like this, as so many people are interested in self-improvement at this time of year.”
Ellery Isenstein led the talk. She has worked as a dermatology surgical assistant and dermatology medical assistant.
She started by describing skin types, such as normal skin where the oil and moisture levels are balanced with few imperfections and minimal sensitivity, pores that are barely visible and radiant complexion; dry skin that feels tight even after cleansing, with flaking or rough patches; oily skin that is shiny in appearance, especially in the T-zone — the forehead, nose and chin; and sensitive skin, which is easily irritated by products or the environment.
She described basic skin care as cleansing, treatments that can target specific concerns, moisturizing and applying sun protection.
For cleansing, gel cleansers are suggested for oily skin, cream cleansers for dry or mature skin, and foaming cleansers for oily or acne-prone skin. It’s also recommended that people wash their faces morning and night, though the frequency depends on skin types.
“However, if you are dry, you do not always need to wash your face morning and night,” Isenstein said. “I am almost 29 and I found that this winter has become really, really trying for me. So, I stopped washing my face morning and night and I only do it at night. Also, I rinse my face with warm water in the morning but because it’s so drying, I no longer wash my face in the morning, and that’s totally OK.”
She said some common mistakes include cleansing too often, using water that is too hot, scrubbing aggressively, not removing makeup first, and using body soap on the face.
For moisturizing, seek active ingredients such as hyaluronic acid for all skin types, ceramides for dry or sensitive skin, Vitamin C for sun-damaged or aging skin before sunscreen, Vitamin B3 for oily or sensitive skin in the mornings under moisturizer, retinol/retinoid (Vitamin A) for aging or acne issues, and azelaic acid for rosacea (redness). The face should still be wet when applying some of these treatments and moisturizers.
“When you’re applying your moisturizers (and) hydrating serums, having a moist face is going to make it easier for those to penetrate and really lock in the moisture. The only time you want a dry face is when you have retinoid or retinol … because if you apply that to a wet face, it’s going to get irritated,” Isenstein said.
For sun protection, SPF products should be worn daily.
“I don’t care if it is raining, cloudy or snowing outside. You need it all year round, and per the American Association of Dermatology, you want at least SPF 30 daily,” she said.
In terms of application, a roughly nickel-size amount should be used to cover the face and a shot-glass amount to cover the body, lips and ears. The backs of hands and tops of feet should not be missed during the application process. Broad spectrum SPF products are recommended, since they protect against UVA and UVB rays. The SPF in makeup does not replace daily SPF.
Sunscreen should be applied at least 15 minutes before going outside and reapplied every two hours, she said, especially after swimming or sweating. It’s advised to check sunscreen expiration dates and avoid tanning beds.
Other skin care treatments people could consider are microneedling, neuromodulators, dermal fillers, chemical peels, laser resurfacing, and Platelet Rich Plasma (PRP).
Troy Public Library plans to hold similar programs in the future.
“We’re always considering patron feedback and interest when we plan our programs, as well as what is (or might be) popular given the current cultural moment,” Morgel said.
For more information on library events, visit troypl.org.
