Plan a visit to Walloon Lake

By Greg Tasker

WALLOON LAKE — A couple of decades ago, while following Ernest Hemingway’s footsteps through the woods, rivers and towns of northern Michigan, I made my way to the village of Walloon Lake, where, I discovered, there was no village.

A few shabby buildings still stood, remnants of the village’s heyday as a summer destination a century earlier for the Hemingway family and other Midwest vacationers. Other than a general store, there was nothing to stop for. I kept going.

So imagine my surprise when I returned recently to discover that the Village of Walloon Lake had reappeared — almost magically — with refurbished and new buildings along the shores of this unusually shaped lake that spans Charlevoix and Emmet counties. That’s largely due to the passion of Jonathan Borisch, a developer from Grand Rapids and a Walloon Lake native, who has resurrected the village after decades of decline (that’s another story).

Hemingway, of course, would not recognize the village today but Walloon Lake offers all the amenities vacationers expect in a classic Michigan resort town. There’s an ice cream shop and candy store, a coffee bar, a few restaurants, and other shops. A new general store is also in the works, expected to open early next year.  The  lake, of course, is the big draw and boat rentals can be found at the marina.

Walloon Lake is also an ideal location from which to explore this bucolic region of northwestern Michigan. Walloon Lake is a short drive from both Charlevoix and Petoskey and just minutes from Boyne City and the Boyne Mountain Resort. It’s also located within the expansive Petoskey Wine Region.

A word of warning, however. You might be hard-pressed to leave Walloon Lake after checking into the charming Hotel Walloon. Reminiscent of a grand lakeside hotel of another era, Hotel Walloon invites relaxation. There are porches with rocking chairs. Rooms with private balconies. Beach chairs lining the shoreline. And the lobby, dominated by a large stone fireplace, makes you want to kick back and relax with a book and a glass of wine from the cruvinet.

Opened in 2015, Hotel Walloon was the first new lodging property in the village in 90 years and among  the new businesses that have helped put the resort back on the map. The hotel has been racking up awards since it opened. The latest comes from Travel & Leisure magazine, which ranked Hotel Walloon as the Best Resort in the Midwest and as the No. 5 Resort in the United States.

If you choose to linger, two restaurants are within walking distance, and it’s a leisurely stroll through the village, home to just 315 year-round residents (the wooded shoreline of the 4,270-acre lake is teeming with summer homes and cottages). The center is the Village Green on Walloon Lake. The park is home to a recently installed statue of Ernest Hemingway called “The Old Man and the Cat.” There’s also a series of historical signs that share the region’s history, including ties to the Hemingway family.

On Walloon Lake, the Hemingway family’s summer cottage, Windermere, still stands and remains owned by the family. It is not open to the public.

Greg Tasker is a Traverse City-based freelance writer. Greg’s articles focused on northern Michigan travel will appear in C & G Newspapers during the summer.

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What to see:

At nearby Boyne Mountain Resort, work up the nerve to walk across the SkyBridge, the world’s longest timber-towered suspension bridge. It’s a short ride up the ski slope on the historic Hemlock Scenic Chairlift to the bridge. The 1,200-foot-long bridge stands nearly 120 feet above ground and offers stunning views of the countryside. The Petoskey Wine Region is home to 14 wineries in Michigan’s newest AVA, the Tip of the Mitt American Viticultural Area. Because the growing conditions and climate differ from other well-known Michigan wine areas, the wineries here are largely growing hybrid grapes. That’s not a snub. Walloon Lake Winery won the coveted “best red wine” in the now-defunct Michigan Wine Competition a few years ago. The closest winery to the Village of Walloon is Boyne Valley Vineyards. Petoskey Yesterday offers guided tours of Hemingway sites in Petoskey, Horton Bay and Walloon Lake. Hemingway spent every summer of his youth on Walloon Lake and his adventures here were the inspiration for some of his early short stories. You can also download a Hemingway brochure for a self-guided tour on the Petoskey Area Visitors Bureau website.

 

Where to eat:

A former inn overlooking the lake, Walloon Lake Inn endures today as an upscale restaurant with an innovative menu, including selections of seafood, beef and lamb. It’s a short walk from Hotel Walloon. For another lakeside option, consider the Barrel Back Restaurant, a bar and casual eatery that stands next to the hotel. Large garage doors open to views of Walloon Lake — a great place to be at sunset. Barrel Back is a term associated with wooden boats — the round transom on the stern looks like a floating barrel when the boat is in the water.

 

Where to stay:

Hotel Walloon has 32 well-appointed guest rooms, a billiards room, a 24-hour fitness room, a heated outdoor spa, an outdoor fire pit, a private beach and dock, and more. The concierge service is second to none and guests enjoy light breakfast snacks in the morning and other offerings during the day. About 15 minutes north of  Walloon Lake, the Inn at Bay Harbor, Autograph Collection, also offers luxurious accommodations, with many rooms overlooking Little Traverse Bay. The 105-room hotel reflects the style of turn-of-the-century lakeside inns. The amenities include restaurants, a full-service spa, 45 holes of championship golf, afternoon tea, a lakeside pool and bar. A small village of shops and restaurants are within walking distance of the hotel.