Explore: Discover Glen Arbor

By Greg Tasker
 

GLEN ARBOR — If you’re looking for a classic summer vacation in Michigan — the kind where water, woods and whatever are available at your will on any given day — look no further than Glen Arbor on the Leelanau Peninsula.

While this town of about 700 year-round residents swells in the summer, Glen Arbor still manages to invite relaxation. No wonder. Glen Arbor is surrounded by the woods and hills of Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore and lies on the sandy shores of Lake Michigan — so there’s ample opportunity for beach time, hiking and biking, and kaying and stand up paddle boarding.

And much, much more.

Wander along M-22 through Glen Arbor and you’ll discover boutiques, T-shirt shops, art galleries, outdoor outfitters, and welcoming cafes and restaurants.

Like any resort town, businesses come and go. And then there are those like Art’s Tavern that become part of the landscape and evoke memories for generations of families who summer in Glen Arbor.

Art’s Tavern has been around for some 90 years and is throwback to another era, welcoming tourists and locals alike, serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner almost every day of the year. Staples like burgers and tater tots and a rotating selection of Michigan craft beer and other ales keep customers coming back.

The dining room is pretty much as it has always been: college sports pennants blanket the ceiling, old photos line the walls, and a streamlined jukebox awaits to play your favorite tunes. It’s an anomaly — cash or check only — in an era of Apple Pay and Google Pay.

Glen Arbor is the home of Cherry Republic, the purveyor of all things cherry in Northern Michigan and beyond. It’s well worth a visit to its small, tidy campus, where you can shop for chocolate-covered cherries, jams and salsa or sit outside and sip a cherry-infused beer or eat a slice of heavenly cherry pie.

Another iconic Up North brand — M22 — has a presence in Glen Arbor as well. You’ll find T-shirts, sweatshirts, hats, bags and other branded items at this location on its namesake road. Unlike the company’s other stores in Traverse City and Suttons Bay, the Glen Arbor location boasts a wine tasting bar. You can sit outside on the patio for a glass of locally made red or white wine or step inside the store for a flight.

Speaking of wine, be sure to check out Glen Arbor Wines on Lake Street, just a block from Lake Michigan and Sleeping Bear Bay. The tree-shaded patio is an inviting spot to chill and sample wines made especially for the business by a private winemaker. A bocce court and lawn games make it all too easy to linger.

Lissa Edwards Martin, who opened the wine store and art gallery several years ago after a decades-long career in journalism, has a long family history in Glen Arbor. Her parents purchased the property decades ago and her grandparents once ran a restaurant around the corner on M-22. She spent her childhood summers here — swimming in the bay, floating in a tube on the Crystal River and hiking the dunes.

“I remember Glen Arbor as a dusty town back in the 1960s,” says Martin, who walks the block to the beach nearly every day to marvel at the water’s ever-changing colors. “It’s mostly a tourist town now but I’m happy to share Glen Arbor with people who appreciate it. It’s truly a magical place.”

At the town’s northern end, The Mill, a landmark along the meandering Crystal River, is creating its own magic. Shuttered as a grist mill some 80 years ago, the recently renovated 19th century structure now serves as a cafe, restaurant and gathering spot. The eateries offer seasonal and regionally sourced fare and freshly baked pastries. Guest rooms are available in the adjacent Queen-Anne style miller’s house.

Step inside for coffee or to look around and you’re likely to run into Corey Smith, the general manager, who encounters the curious nearly every day. “So many people have either been traveling to the area for generations or haven’t been for decades. These people are surely curious to see The Mill after our restoration,” he says.

Most people are delighted. Don’t be surprised if the great room, with its exposed post and beams and variety of comfortable sofas, chairs and tables, entices you to stay awhile, play board games and cards or chat with locals and visitors.

“The work completed here is a feat of its own caliber. Not only has our team been thoughtful of the historical preservation, but also we have created a space that the local community is able to interact with on a daily basis,” Smith says.

Although Glen Arbor is spread along M-22 and side streets, it’s easy to walk around. If you prefer two wheels, pop into The Cyclery, Glen Arbor’s only full-service bike shop, for a rental. You can venture farther afield, cruise scenic roads or make your way to the Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail, one of the region’s premier bike trails. The paved, multi-use trail passes through the national park, stretching 22 miles from Empire to Bohemia Road to the north, running parallel to the lakeshore.

The Crystal River snakes through Glen Arbor on its way from Glen Lake to Lake Michigan. Need to cool off? Rent a kayak or stand up paddle board at Crystal River Outfitters and slip in the river for a leisurely two- to three-hour paddle. The river is slow-moving and shallow, which makes it accessible to the whole family.

Or save exercise for another day and check out the River Club Glen Arbor, which opened just a year ago. The well-manicured three-acre park offers mini golf and plenty of outdoor seating for food and drinks and live music. River Club serves a variety of Michigan craft beer, cider and wine, as well as margaritas and cocktails.

On a recent afternoon, I met some friends there for drinks. We lounged in chairs along a bend in the river, watching kayakers and stand up paddlers mosey by. With Bob Seger songs playing in the background and Michigan wine and beer in hand, it felt like a classic summer day in Michigan.

Greg Tasker is a Traverse City-based freelance writer.