Touting the delights of Holland

By Greg Tasker

HOLLAND, MI — There’s no shortage of sandy shores or charming beach towns along the Lake Michigan coastline.

Ask any avid Michigan beach goer to share their favorite sunbathing spot or lakeside town and they’ll likely have a favorite or two.

Lately, I’ve been touting the delights of Holland, a spiffy, handsome community more famous for its colorful tulips and Dutch heritage than its beaches and resort amenities. At least that’s what I thought.

Imagine my surprise late last summer when I ventured beyond the Lake Michigan beaches to explore downtown Holland and discovered much more than a beach town. Holland’s tree- and flower-lined streets are home to upscale shops, al fresco dining, public art and much more.

Holland’s vibe may be a bit more sophisticated than that of other beach communities along Lake Michigan, but it’s no less welcoming.

You could spend long afternoons apres-beach browsing Holland’s nine-block downtown, where you’ll find everything from men’s and women’s clothing to home accents and gifts to Dutch souvenirs. Beach towels and chairs, and T-shirts — staples of any beach town — are less prominent here.

Maybe that’s because Holland’s beaches are a short drive away. The city doesn’t sit on the shores of Lake Michigan but on the shores of Lake Macatawa. Neighborhoods border the 1,700-acre inland lake, which connects to the great lake by a channel.

Downtown Holland impressed me for many reasons: the mix of architecture styles from the late 19th and early 20th century, including examples of Italianate, Late Victorian and Renaissance Revival; a vibrant, walkable downtown and the one-of-a-kind retailers who add to the sense of being somewhere beyond Michigan.

This is not a beach town that rolls up the sidewalks in the off season. In the winter, an underground heating system — known as Snowmelt — melts the snow and ice on downtown streets and sidewalks. It’s the largest municipally run snowmelt system in North America.

 

Downtown shopping
Stores like the Holland Clock Company and Nelis’ Dutch Village add European charm. The Holland Clock Company sells handcrafted German clocks, beer steins, nutcrackers, and ornaments. Nelis’ Dutch Village offers a huge selection of Dutch gifts, Delftware, souvenirs, imported foods and snacks, and, yes, wooden shoes. You can also sample some 20 Dutch cheeses and have your wooden shoes personalized. The aisles at Out of the Box are lined with toys, puzzles, board games and more.

There are, of course, familiar resort town shops, peddling iconic Michigan summer staples. They include Cherry Republic for all things cherry, and Kilwins for chocolate, fudge and ice cream. They share the streets with locally based food purveyors like Crane’s in the City, well-known regionally for its various fruit pies. The family-owned shop on Eigth Street also sells sandwiches, salads and other desserts. The Holland Peanut Store, run by the same family  — the Fabianos — for more than a century, is a sweet treat for all ages, selling homemade chocolates, fresh roasted nuts and nostalgic candy.

 

Restaurant scene
Holland’s restaurant scene is diverse, with many eateries offering alfresco dining along the city’s main downtown thoroughfare. You’ll find everything from traditional American and pub fare to deep dish Chicago pizza to Asian and Mexican offerings.

I especially enjoyed the tapas at Poquito. The star of the meal was the 36-hour braised beef short ribs served with crispy brussels sprouts; tangy Rioja jus enhanced the flavor of beef so tender it fell apart.

One lazy afternoon, I popped into New Holland Brewing Co., a downtown staple, to check out the beer selection. Full Circle, a Kolsch-style ale, one the craft brewer’s legacy brands, quenched my thirst after a long day on the beach.

No visit here would not be complete without sampling Dutch-influenced fare. For traditional tastes, try a klompen cake (a buttermilk pancake-like treat) or saucijzenbroodjes (Dutch sausage rolls) at the two locations of deBoer’s Bakkerij (bakery). Breakfast was so filling, I never made it back to sample other “Dutch Stuff” on the lunch menu. “A Taste of the Old Country,” a combination of a croquette, a pig in a blanket, a cup of pea soup and a slice of Dutch mild gouda cheese — sounded tempting.

 

Dutch heritage
In the spring, Holland transforms into a floral paradise, as more than 5 million tulips bloom in the gardens and parks, celebrating its Dutch heritage. One of the best venues to enjoy the tulips is Windmill Island Gardens. By summertime, of course, the tulips are long gone but the gardens remain well worth a visit. The gardens are replanted with annuals after tulip time. You’ll see dozens of varieties in themed beds. The well-manicured gardens are also home to Tour De Zwaan, the only authentic Dutch windmill operating in the country.  The windmill still turns and grinds wheat into flour. From the top of the five-story windmill, you can take in views of the 36-acre park.

Stop at De Klomp Wooden Shoe & Delft Factory to buy a pair of traditional wooden shoes or Delftware pottery with its distinctive blue designs.

 

The beaches
And then there’s the beaches, which drew me to Holland in the first place. The primary beaches are Holland State Park and Tunnel Park, both on Lake Michigan and a short drive from downtown. There are other beaches, of course, but either of these is a solid choice for a summer day of sunshine, sand and water activities.

Tunnel Park is located north of the state park and is named after a tunnel that cuts through a dune to reach the expansive, sandy shoreline. The park also has a playground, a dune climb and a dune stairway that leads to scenic views of Lake Michigan.

The 142-acre Holland State Park boasts beaches on both Lake Michigan and Lake Macatawa. Kayak, canoe, and stand-up paddleboard rentals are available at the Macatawa Boathouse. At the park pavilion, Beachplace Cafe and Shop rents chairs, umbrellas, beach wagons and volleyballs. The cafe serves standard beach fare — burgers, fries and more, and the gift shop stocks sunscreens, inflatable beach toys, snorkels and masks.

Downtown Holland may create the sense of being worlds away, but the beaches — especially Holland State Park with its views of the iconic Red Lighthouse — will remind you of exactly where you are.

Greg Tasker is a Traverse City-based freelance writer.